What is Keratin Treatment (or – Why Mummies have straight hair?) BeautyIsUp
DIFFERENCES FROM FORMALDEHYDE PRODUCTS
Cezanne’s proprietary blend of effective and unique active ingredients deliver long-lasting, transformational results without using harmful ingredients. We are 100% free from formaldehyde or its derivatives in all of our products. Our products never have and never will contain or turn into formaldehyde or anything hazardous to your health.
Our product has been safety tested to government standards using the National Institute of Safety and Health (NIOSH) protocols, proving no detectable levels of formaldehyde in a salon setting.
Differences From Carbocisteine Products
Our proprietary and unique smoothing treatment formulation is composed of sericin (a component of silk), aloe vera, keratin, glycolic acid, vitamins and botanical extracts. Cezanne contains ingredients that restore the health of the hair.
Compared to carbocisteine products, which can wash out after 30 days and last no longer than 60 days, Cezanne lasts up to five months. Cezanne is also different because it doesn’t have an unpleasant odor and doesn’t require additional steps like an extra rinse, masque application or conditioning treatment.
Differences From Japanese Straighteners and Relaxers
Japanese straighteners and relaxers straighten the hair by breaking disulfide bonds. The Cezanne treatment uses a revolutionary low pH technology to restore bonds that are broken or damaged during thermal, mechanical or high pH chemical services. Simple hydration of the hair at a lower pH provides a gentler, less extreme cuticle lift that’s sufficient for Cezanne’s small molecules to penetrate the cortex.
In addition to breaking disulfide bonds, these other services are also permanent, leave a line of demarcation and limit the client to a pin-straight look. Moreover, they use very strong chemicals that may require a mask or gloves and can potentially be hazardous to the stylist and consumer.
The Cezanne treatment wears off gradually, so no line of demarcation is present. The hair will also hold a curl if you try to curl it. There is no need for mask, gloves or ventilation during the smoothing treatment because it doesn’t contain dangerous ingredients.
Unlike formaldehyde-based treatments that require restrictions for three days, clients can shampoo, work out, wear clips and ponytails immediately after their Cezanne treatment.
If you desire smoother, sleeker, stronger hair without the toxic ingredients, take a closer look at the Cezanne treatment.
Safety of Brazilian Keratin Treatments-
Below you will find the most commonly used ingredients to dissolve keratin in keratin hair treatments:
Formaldehyde-
Formaldehyde is the simplest aldehyde and is highly reactive. It is an unstable gas with strong odor which binds to protein and DNA. It is used in several products as resins, glues, coatings, preservatives, vaccines ( to inactivate viruses) and mummification, among others ( on the mummification topic I have to clarify you will not find an article from me on that but it is amazing the number of details you can get if you type the words formaldehyde and mummification together in the google search – exasperating!)
It is an end product of carbon metabolism so it is present in all living organisms. Formaldehyde is normally present at low levels, in outdoor and indoor air. Formaldehyde emissions increase with increased temperature and humidity.
Formaldehyde (also known as methanal) is a chemical used to dissolve keratin to be applied in keratin treatments. It can be found with other names as methylene glycol, formalin, formic aldehyde, paraform, methylene oxide, methanal, oxomethane, oxymethylene, or CAS Number 50-00-0. There are also creative names to it like in a famous keratin treatment that lists “bonded aldehyde” in their ingredients list instead of calling it with a proper name.
Formaldehyde irritates skin and eyes. When inhaled it can irritate the respiratory tract and in high concentrations it was demonstrated in animal tests, induces cancer in the throat and nose. In humans, it was linked with leukemia. The International Agency for research on Cancer and the World Health organization had classified formaldehyde as a potential carcinogen.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review ( established by the cosmetics industry trade) has declared formaldehyde and methylene glycol are unsafe for use in hair smoothing products, the use of which involves application of high temperatures. The Environmental Working Group filed a law suit charging the FDA with a failure to respond to the danger posed by hair-straightening treatments that contain formaldehyde.
Unfortunately, several companies advertise their products as being formaldehyde free but they are not.
Conclusion: decisively NO to keratin treatments containing formaldehyde.
Several recognized bodies ( inlcuding WG) had investigated companies that produce keratin hair-straightening products with formaldehyde.
See below the list of companies tested and how much formaldehyde they have:
Company and Formaldehyde levels
Advanced Brazilian Keratin Treatment 1.70%
Brazilan Gloss up to 7.3%
Brazilian Blowout up to 11.8%
Brazilian Keratin Treatment in Mint, Chocolate, Strawberry 1.54%
Brazilian Keratin Treatment Step 2 Grape Extract 3.50%
Brazilian Keratin Treatment, Marcia Teixeira 1.60%
Brazillian Blowout Acai Professional Smoothing Solution 6.4- 8.8%
Brazillian Thermal Reconstruction 7%
Cadiveu 7%
Choco Hair – Brazilian Keratin Chocolate 1.2-1.8%
Chocolate, extreme de-frizzing treatment 2%
Complex Brazilian Keratin Straightening Treatment 3%
Coppola up to 2.3%
Diamond – Premiere Brazilian Keratin System 0.8-1.7%
Domani > 0.2%
Functional Keratin Hair Taming System 1.7%
Global Keratin up to 4.4%
Goleshlee > 0.6%
Goleshlee Keratin Hair Therapy >0.6%
IBS Beauty 2.3%
Istraight Keratin Advanced Keratin Treatment 2.30%
KeraGreen 1.6%
KeraHair – Premiere Brazilian Keratin System0 .7-2.5%
Keratin Complex Express Blowout >0.2-1.7%
Keratin Complex Intense RX, Smoothing Therapy 0.5-0.8%
Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy 2%
Keratin express 1.2%
Keratin Treatment 2.60%
KeraVino Premiere Brazilian Keratin System 0.9-1.6%
Marcia Teixeira up to 3.4% (potentially up to 5.87%)
Moroccan Hair Treatment 2.84%-7%
Original > .2%
QOD 3.5%
R & L > 0.2%
Silkening Technologies 2.8%
Simply Smooth American Culture Hair up to 0.93%
Soft-Liss Intelligent Brush Morango Step 2 >0.2%
Spazzola Progressiva > 0.6%
Spruzzi > .2%
Tahe > 0.2%
TCQ Plus Phase 2 – Nano Hydra Keratin 2.30%
Thermo Keratin No. 2 Active Treatment >0.2%
Treatment Original Formula 2%
Veloce 0.35%
Zero (apple) 0.76%
2. Methylene glycol
Methylene glycol (a gas at room temperature) is formed dissolving a molecule of formaldehyde in water. This reaction between methylene glycol and water can easily be reverted, especially in high temperatures ( like the use of flat irons).
Although methylene glycol and formaldehyde are different molecules the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers methylene glycol in a solution, equivalent to formaldehyde.
Hair smoothing products containing Methylene glycol produce volatilization of both Methylene glycol vapors and formaldehyde gas.
Studies demonstrated that in a methylene glycol solution containg 37% of formaldehyde, 50% of the content can be converted into formaldehyde at 400°F (200° C – the temperature used in keratin straighter treatments).
Conclusion : There is much less formaldehyde emission in keratin treatments using methylen glycol than those using formaldehyde. However, it is still very high so NO to keratin treatments containing Methylene glycol
3. Glyoxylic acid
An alternative to formaldehyde in keratin treatment is Glycoxylic acid which we know well as the main ingredient of AHA – alpha hydroxy acids, used as an antiage.
Glyoxylic acid can produce rearrangement in the hair fiber, it is a conditioner, moisturizer, prevents breakage and strengths hair including bleached hair. It also protects hair from heat in high temperature styling procedures.
Glycoxylic can have acute and chronic effects in case of skin and eye contact and inhalation. It emits formaldehyde at high heat (using the flat iron to the seal the keratin into your hair fiber).
Conclusion : NI – Glycoxylic acid is much less hazardous than formaldehyde however it also can have acute and chronic effects in case of skin and eye contact and inhalation.
4. Glyoxyloyl carbocysteine or Oxoacetamide carbocysteine
Glyoxyloyl carbocysteine is and aldehyde resulting from the combination of glycoxylic acid, cysteine and acetic acid. In keratin treatments it acts the same as formaldehyde .
A study made by dr. Ali Syed et al. from the Midwest Society for Cosmetic Chemist in 2012 demonstrated that glyoxyloyl carbocysteine can release formaldehyde when heated at 450°F (232°C) but in much less amounts than if using formaldehyde treatments so it is a much safer alternative compared to formaldehyde. However it is also a chemical and contact with skin and eyes are hazardous and it also should be used in ventilated areas.
An interesting conclusion from this study is the comparison between the results from keratin treatment using formaldehyde and glyoxyloyl carbocysteine:
Results with Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine are better than formaldehyde:
• Effective in straightening Type 2 European and Hispanic hair
• Higher hair shine
• The hair is more resistant to humidity absorption
• The formaldehyde emitted is well within the OSHA guidelines (0.75 ppm of formaldehyde in 8 hours) during heat treatment with Restructuring Lotion containing glyoxyloyl carbocysteine.
Results with formaldehyde are better than Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine:
• Better hair elasticity
Both products have to be left in the hair for 72 hours for better straightening
Conclusion: studies demonstrated that glyoxyloyl carbocysteine in keratin treatment products produces half of the emissions than formaldehyde so it is YES to glyoxyloyl carbocysteine or Oxoacetamide carbocysteine keeping in mind all the precautions ( gloves, goggles, mask) should be taken.
